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6 responses
Try these steps:
* Disconnect the power cord form the power supply, be sure the power supply is set for 110 or 220 volts depending on your location and power and double check it (most have a 110/220 switch)
* Feel/look at the back of the power supply to determine if the fan is working.
* If not, trouble-shoot the power supply (GO down for power supply trouble shooting) and replace it if necessary.
* If the fan is working, try another power supply anyway.
* Plug the computer directly into a known-good (a lamp works) power outlet
* Check to be sure you do not have a motherboard stand-off in the wrong position and shorting-out the bottom of the motherboard.
* Inspect/shake and listen for loose metallic objects (loose screws) on top of and under the motherboard and in expansion board slots
* Look carefully at the ISA and PCI slots, see if any of the contacts got bent/shorted-out. Sometimes an expansion board will dislodge one and it will be pushed into the bottom of the slot.
* Inspect the motherboard for broken or burnt components.
* Carefully inspect the motherboard for black soot from bad bearings and clean and replace the culprit.
* Look for bent/shorted pins on the motherboard headers and straighten.
* Be sure the speaker is plugged into the motherboard. If you hear beeps. Decode the beep code.
* If not, double-check all jumpers.
* Push down on all chips that have sockets in attempt to reseat them.
* What CPU are you using? Be sure the core voltage is correct.
* Be sure the CMOS battery jumper is in the correct position. Some distributors purposely ship motherboards with the jumper in the wrong position.
* Find the jumper that clears the CMOS, put it into the clear position for several minutes, put it back in the normal position, plug-in the power cord, and push the power-on button. If you apply power to the motherboard with the jumper in the clear position you may damage the motherboard.
* Pull all boards except video.
* Disconnect all cables going to all drives, pull all cables except power, power on, and speaker, connect the power supply to the motherboard (the black wires go in the middle on AT power supply connectors--"Black OK, red your dead"), reseat the memory, plug-in and screw-down the display adapter and nothing else (push down on the top, front of the adapter and make sure it is properly seated by looking at it all along the PCI or AGP connector), connect the power-on switch and the speaker.
* Check the monitor plug for bent or pushed-in pins, connect the monitor and nothing else. Check the monitor power cable.
* Reseat/replace the memory.
* Check for Motherboard Electrolytic Capacitor Failures ( Go down to check this)
* Check the CPU for bent pins.
* Try another processor. Note: If you apply power to a motherboard with an Athlon or Duron processor without the CPU fan connected, even for a few seconds, you will fry it (see http://duxcw.com/digest/guides/cpu/socketa/heattip.html
* Check the CMOS battery with a multi-meter. Should be around 3 volts (2.8 is ok).
* Try a different video board.
* See if the CPU and memory will work with another motherboard.
* Pull the motherboard, set it on the box it came in, install video, memory, CPU, power, and power on. See if it boots. I have seen several instances where this works when the board will not work in the case. And, when reinstalled in the case, it continues to work. I have also seen where it didn't work out of the case immediately, but did work the next day and continued to work. One of those mysteries.
* Replace the motherboard.
How can I "trigger" an ATX power supply to test it?
A. Do this at your own risk...
* Is the power cord plugged into the power supply? Is the surge protector on?
* Is it plugged into a live outlet?
* Plug the power supply AC power cord directly into a wall outlet.
* Many recent ATX power supplies have an additional power switch on the back of the power supply itself. Is it on?
* Is the power supply set for the correct voltage? Most of them have 110/220 Volt switch. The 220 volt setting won't work in the U.S.A. The 110 volt setting in Germany, for example, will probably fry the power supply--I've done it!
* Unplug the power cable to the power supply and disconnect all of the power cables from the power supply except the main power connector to the motherboard. Disconnect all other cables to the motherboard except the front panel power-on connector. Remove all expansion boards from the computer. Push the power-on switch and see if the power supply fan turns.
* Try another outlet.
* Now to answer the question... Unplug the power cord from the power supply, short-out pins 14 and 15 on the power supply main power connector, and plug-in the power cord just long enough to see if the fan is working. This may not be the best thing to repeatedly do to an ATX power supply (it can damage it). The ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide states that the power-on function should be normally done with TTL (transistor transistor logic) circuitry which pulls pin 14 low. I use a jumper cable with alligator clips at each end with partially stretched-out paper clips in each alligator clip (an old trick). Pull the power plug before removing the jumper. If the power supply works, remove the motherboard and see if it is shorted-out by a stand-off or lose screw. I have seen cases where a particular "good" ATX power supply would not work with a particular "good" motherboard--so much for standards and design guides.
How to Troubleshoot a Dead Motherboard/Computer
A. If the motherboard is rather old, check the electrolytic capacitors (cylindrical things in the picture) on the motherboard with a flashlight. Some time ago a mistake in the stolen formulation of the electrolyte used in a capacitors resulted in the manufacture of many motherboards with defective electrolytics. Look for bulging sides and dark ooze. Some motherboard manufactures will repair them if the motherboard is still in warrantee. There are companies that repair them also (see below). I would avoid the hassle, kiss-off the motherboard, and replace it.
Also, electrolytic capacitors do have a specified lifetime and even quality electrolytic capacitors will fail in time. That is one reason that more tantulum capcitors were used on quality motherboards in the "old days." Of course, cheap motherboards usually use cheap components and will probably fail earlier than quality products.
* Disconnect the power cord form the power supply, be sure the power supply is set for 110 or 220 volts depending on your location and power and double check it (most have a 110/220 switch)
* Feel/look at the back of the power supply to determine if the fan is working.
* If not, trouble-shoot the power supply (GO down for power supply trouble shooting) and replace it if necessary.
* If the fan is working, try another power supply anyway.
* Plug the computer directly into a known-good (a lamp works) power outlet
* Check to be sure you do not have a motherboard stand-off in the wrong position and shorting-out the bottom of the motherboard.
* Inspect/shake and listen for loose metallic objects (loose screws) on top of and under the motherboard and in expansion board slots
* Look carefully at the ISA and PCI slots, see if any of the contacts got bent/shorted-out. Sometimes an expansion board will dislodge one and it will be pushed into the bottom of the slot.
* Inspect the motherboard for broken or burnt components.
* Carefully inspect the motherboard for black soot from bad bearings and clean and replace the culprit.
* Look for bent/shorted pins on the motherboard headers and straighten.
* Be sure the speaker is plugged into the motherboard. If you hear beeps. Decode the beep code.
* If not, double-check all jumpers.
* Push down on all chips that have sockets in attempt to reseat them.
* What CPU are you using? Be sure the core voltage is correct.
* Be sure the CMOS battery jumper is in the correct position. Some distributors purposely ship motherboards with the jumper in the wrong position.
* Find the jumper that clears the CMOS, put it into the clear position for several minutes, put it back in the normal position, plug-in the power cord, and push the power-on button. If you apply power to the motherboard with the jumper in the clear position you may damage the motherboard.
* Pull all boards except video.
* Disconnect all cables going to all drives, pull all cables except power, power on, and speaker, connect the power supply to the motherboard (the black wires go in the middle on AT power supply connectors--"Black OK, red your dead"), reseat the memory, plug-in and screw-down the display adapter and nothing else (push down on the top, front of the adapter and make sure it is properly seated by looking at it all along the PCI or AGP connector), connect the power-on switch and the speaker.
* Check the monitor plug for bent or pushed-in pins, connect the monitor and nothing else. Check the monitor power cable.
* Reseat/replace the memory.
* Check for Motherboard Electrolytic Capacitor Failures ( Go down to check this)
* Check the CPU for bent pins.
* Try another processor. Note: If you apply power to a motherboard with an Athlon or Duron processor without the CPU fan connected, even for a few seconds, you will fry it (see http://duxcw.com/digest/guides/cpu/socketa/heattip.html
* Check the CMOS battery with a multi-meter. Should be around 3 volts (2.8 is ok).
* Try a different video board.
* See if the CPU and memory will work with another motherboard.
* Pull the motherboard, set it on the box it came in, install video, memory, CPU, power, and power on. See if it boots. I have seen several instances where this works when the board will not work in the case. And, when reinstalled in the case, it continues to work. I have also seen where it didn't work out of the case immediately, but did work the next day and continued to work. One of those mysteries.
* Replace the motherboard.
How can I "trigger" an ATX power supply to test it?
A. Do this at your own risk...
* Is the power cord plugged into the power supply? Is the surge protector on?
* Is it plugged into a live outlet?
* Plug the power supply AC power cord directly into a wall outlet.
* Many recent ATX power supplies have an additional power switch on the back of the power supply itself. Is it on?
* Is the power supply set for the correct voltage? Most of them have 110/220 Volt switch. The 220 volt setting won't work in the U.S.A. The 110 volt setting in Germany, for example, will probably fry the power supply--I've done it!
* Unplug the power cable to the power supply and disconnect all of the power cables from the power supply except the main power connector to the motherboard. Disconnect all other cables to the motherboard except the front panel power-on connector. Remove all expansion boards from the computer. Push the power-on switch and see if the power supply fan turns.
* Try another outlet.
* Now to answer the question... Unplug the power cord from the power supply, short-out pins 14 and 15 on the power supply main power connector, and plug-in the power cord just long enough to see if the fan is working. This may not be the best thing to repeatedly do to an ATX power supply (it can damage it). The ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide states that the power-on function should be normally done with TTL (transistor transistor logic) circuitry which pulls pin 14 low. I use a jumper cable with alligator clips at each end with partially stretched-out paper clips in each alligator clip (an old trick). Pull the power plug before removing the jumper. If the power supply works, remove the motherboard and see if it is shorted-out by a stand-off or lose screw. I have seen cases where a particular "good" ATX power supply would not work with a particular "good" motherboard--so much for standards and design guides.
How to Troubleshoot a Dead Motherboard/Computer
A. If the motherboard is rather old, check the electrolytic capacitors (cylindrical things in the picture) on the motherboard with a flashlight. Some time ago a mistake in the stolen formulation of the electrolyte used in a capacitors resulted in the manufacture of many motherboards with defective electrolytics. Look for bulging sides and dark ooze. Some motherboard manufactures will repair them if the motherboard is still in warrantee. There are companies that repair them also (see below). I would avoid the hassle, kiss-off the motherboard, and replace it.
Also, electrolytic capacitors do have a specified lifetime and even quality electrolytic capacitors will fail in time. That is one reason that more tantulum capcitors were used on quality motherboards in the "old days." Of course, cheap motherboards usually use cheap components and will probably fail earlier than quality products.
are you sure the cpu heatsink/fan supports the wattage being put out by ur cpu? if not thats the problem and the burning smell was ur cpu frying. ur motherboard still works if that was the case but ur cpu may be shot. dont turn the computer back on until you are sure the heatsink/fan supports the wattage being put out by ur cpu. put the cpu in another computer and see if u have the same problem, if so then u fried ur cpu
Vilinus
Posts
5
Registration date
Sunday April 5, 2009
Status
Member
Last seen
April 6, 2009
Apr 6, 2009 at 11:11 AM
Apr 6, 2009 at 11:11 AM
change power supply. Realitively cheap these days.
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